Has anyone seen this on Facebook?
I can’t see it not in her group
At a precursory glance, it looks like somebody is using Winton oil paints (made by Windsor and Newton) in place of GHSP with great success.
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I have seen in my group (in french). I didn’t know that came from SueEllen group. I didn’t know that you could heat set regular oil paint, I was under the impression that heatset paint where more the ceramic type paint.
But at this point, why not just using airdry ? Same colors, less work !
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Ok, yes that would be Jessica Collier. She taught this in a class at DOTW. I posted about this the other day and also did some Youtube test videos of my own. Sue-Ellen is in another group that I am in as well and Jessica shared about this in the group so that is how Sue-Ellen found out I think.
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No this did NOT originate with Sue Ellen. Actually, back when I started reborining in 2004 we all were using oil paints and stencil creams. The difference is they were being thinned with Linseed oil not odorless thinner. I did used to heat mine to help them set better. Using the oil paints it was harder to get the details such as mottling etc. That came about more with Genesis. However, if you thin them with solvent you can do it easily. I don’t know why we all didn’t think of it sooner.
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Here is the post I put up
https://discourse.bountifulbaby.com/t/heat-setting-winton-paints/107430
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What the heat is doing for oil ? Is it just to dry it faster by evaporate the thinner ? I don’t see how it could help with the bonding on vinyl. I may look at it, by curiosity.
Yes, the heat helps the paints to dry out quicker. What I found online is that Winton paints seem to have an extra drying agent in them so they dry faster than some oils already. Heating them just helps to cure them a bit faster. I have talked to Jessica extensively about her method and she says she has put parts in the back window of her car and rode around with them for months, scratched and scraped on the limbs etc and found them all to be very durable. She does seal hers with a heat set matte varnish. She likes the BC heat set varnish.
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Yes, exactly
To be fair, this was posted in Sue Ellens group, but she wasn’t the person that posted it. I have no horse in the race, but I don’t want it to appear that Sue Ellen is taking credit for the idea.
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This is great, the prices of the new heat set paints are very high. As these are much lower and I tube will last a lifetime lol. Plus you can buy it in your craft store, no need to order online.
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What’s the BC heat set varnish? I need a good varnish 
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Beatriz Clemente’s line. It’s sold by DollsBySandie.
So it should be possible to let them dry naturally, I guess? Away from lint obviously.
Thank you.
I just wanted to clarify that this is now coming up as a result of Jessica’s class she taught at DOTW and she is the person who has brought the oil paints back around to our attentions lately. Since I have been talking about it too I wanted not to look like I was taking any credit. If anyone has any questions about it she is the person to ask. She is a super nice lady who is very willing to share and help out. I met her in Kansas last year and her dolls are just beautiful! This year her table was right across from mine and I really enjoyed talking to her.
I am not painting with the Winton paints but I have played a bit with mixing some in my brown Genesis mix to make it richer for hair painting and that worked well. I also tried mixing some in with the IRHSP brown because it is not at all strong enough in pigment to paint hair and that worked too. I just had to make sure the IRHSP had some of their thinning medium mixed in first to dissolve the IRHSP.
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BCVarnish is a very different product. She recommends thinning it with water and applying it thinly pouncing it out. Let it air dry and then heat set it. It is almost like a combination of both air dry and heat set products. It does not have UV protectants in it which is one draw back IMO. When I tested it, I did not thin it with water because it was my understanding that thinning it makes it less matte and I wanted to see how matte it was. It was indeed matte but it also can leave a gritty feel behind when used full strength like GMV did. Jessica told me she liked the feel of GMV and this was why she chose this brand varnish and is using it full strength. I do not know how it would look thinned down as I honestly did not even test it that way before I sold off mine. Once I found out it did not have UV protection in it I was not interested in it. However, Jessica and I also had this discussion and now she is going to apply a product with UV protection in it first to her painted pieces and then go back over them with this product to get the finish she likes. The S&M heat set medium from MacP has UV protection in it so I told her she could use it as a sealer first before varnishing if she wanted to or she could use the RebornFX Sealer which also has some UV protectants in it and let it air dry then apply her BC varnish.
I myself have both the IRHSP matte varnish and the Xodus Matte Varnish here in my stash. I have used both and both are good I think. The IRHSP is probably a little more matte than the Xodus but then the Xodus seems more durable to me so it is the one I am going with after I use all this other up I have. I have also followed the IRHSP FB page and it seems to be hit or miss as to the number of people who have issues with some of the products while others dearly love them. Like anything new, there are always kinks to work out.
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If you are talking about the Winton paints yes. However, keep in mind that if you plan to varnish over them with a heat set varnish they must be fully cured in order for the varnish and paint not to peel up later. So heat setting them like this is an extra measure of assurance that this is so. If you are fine with letting them sit though you can do that. When we were painting back in the early days we were told to let sit a minimum of 2 weeks to up to a month. This was because we were using extra linseed oil which takes a long time to evaporate out. It also led to the paint layers being thicker I think. Later we had pieces going yellow from the linseed oil over time as well. Mostly though it was the long cure time that was the drawback and this is why Genesis hit the scene with such a big impression. I am told the linseed oils of today are better processed so not as bad to go yellow but still if you used a lot it could. I am posting a link below that you can read about different oil paints. Even though the Winton paints are considered a student grade of paint and not an artist grade, these statements from the article are why I think they are working well for Jessica on vinyl:
“They use moderately priced pigments in their paint rather than lessening the amount of pigment in the paint to an unacceptable level. For students, professionals with a low budget or artists who need large volumes of paint that aren’t going to mix the colours too much (for example textured palette knife paintings), Winton could be suitable.”
“Compared to other student ranges such as Daler Rowney Georgian Oils, Winton certainly comes out top.”
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Thank you for the info! I don’t have an oven as I am an airdry user, that’s why I was curious. I have worked with oils on canvas, there’s some other thinner you can use beside linseed oil that may reduce yellowing.
It’s interesting to find alternatives to the usual paints !
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