Test baby getting stripping #2

I went crazy with the panpastels on this one, even trying at first to skip all the paint. Wrong. Not happening. Lol So I did a couple of washes and now it’s stripping time. Other than the washes, this is all panpastels. Love them, but have to practice more. Besides this the only problem I’m having is figuring out where the washes go. (I use air dry paint and have to work quickly, so I work in sections) I either need better lighting or new glasses.

Here’s Megan getting ready for an alcohol bath.


why are you stripping her?

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Because she’s a chalky mess. Lol


You are doing lots better with the pan pastels than I am. So far I am a total washout with them. I’ll keep trying, but they don’t seem to be a substitute for the powders I was using. They don’t behave the same at all, and the colors are so dang strong. I have a lot of trouble controlling them. I’m going to try using them on paper and see if I like them as pastels because I’m not sure I’m going to be able to use them on my dolls. I won’t give up yet though. I’m getting lots of tips from dddolly.


I have no choice but to use paint washes first, THEN use the panpastels. I did a little too much experimenting here. :smile:

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I’ve still got a long way to go with these, @honojane. Because they are super strong, I’m mostly using the tints or mixing with colorless blender to tone it down… I will probably end up using this for details like blushing and shading. Oh, one other thing… I tried to color the inside of the nostrils and inner ears with this. It looks like dirt- must have used too much.

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I bought mine at Amazon and the flesh tone kit came right away, but I bought some other colors at another store and they haven’t come yet. My colorless blender is in that order and so are my magentas.


You might like them a little better once you get that blender to tone them done a bit and make them easier to blend. You might be able to make do with a little white, but the white would have to go down first, then the layer of color or it will look chalky.

I also got the portrait set and noticed a lack of pink/magenta colors. I’m not 100% happy with my crease color and am not really sure what good blushing colors would be.

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I’m having trouble finding a crease color too as my creases are subtle…usually a rosy purple color that I mix myself. I don’t like extreme creases…just shadowed ones.

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I can’t wait to see your test baby @DDDolly!!! I bet she is beautiful!

@honojane, if I figure something out, I will let you know. And please keep me posted as well. I’m not a fan of dark creases… they look like cuts to me.

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This thing is harder to strip the second time around. Anyone have a trick to stripping the hard to reach places and crevices?

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Is your normal powders the baby fx ones?

Yeah I’m still waiting on test results from everyone so I can buy what works the best lol I wanna try them but unsure what to get

I copied and pasted my response on another thread in case anyone here missed this:

At this point I have only used them on the test limb. I can tell you that if you are used to the eye shadows they are very different. These are loaded with pigments and they do stain/grab easily to the vinyl. I am still convinced that can be worked around and will be trying to determine how best to work with them. I can say that you can not just work them with a brush like you do eye shadows, which are not pure pigments but do indeed have makeup binders in them. You will have to use the special sponges. You will need the blending powder to tone down the shade of some colors. The blending powder is very translucent and said to be colorless. It has an ever so slight white tint to it but it is indeed translucent. I know that those of you who have followed the Coastal Scents methods have been warned about too much white causing the skin tones to lose translucency. However, if you look at the recommended Coastal Scents colors many of them DO have white in them. There is no way for example you can come up with Appletini and Cornflower blue without adding some white to green and blue pigments. So it is not that white is a bad thing, it is that the ratio of white must be kept to a minimum. When I get this figured out I will have my own tutorial on how I use them. I do feel they are the best pigments on the market that I have tried.

At this point colors I would recommend for those who just want to try a little are:

Blending powder

Titanium White

Permanent Red Shade 340.3 for blushing (Will need to be toned down with Blender and possibly white depending on your preference)

I am still working with the Permanent Red Ex. Dark 340.1 as a creases color. I am trying to figure out how to tone down the intensity of it a bit to come up with a similar color to Fine Wine. I liked the color better I got with it on my test limb when I mixed it with blending powder before applying it to the creases.

Ultramarine Blue Shade 520.3 is what I got for blue tones and veins and it works fine for me

I got Yellow Ochre 270.5 for yellow tones and it seems to be a good color for that, can lighten with blending powder

If you want some colors for Ethnic shading the ones I got to try but still have yet to work with are:
740.3 Burnt Sienna Shade (is a milk chocolate brown color)
380.1 Red Iron Oxide Ex Dark (is a chocolate brown color)
380.3 Red Iron Oxide Shade (is a rusty brown color)
I also think the Permanent Red Ex. Dark 340.1 would work for ethnic blushing.
I will have to post later how the ethnic shading tones I chose work for me. Below is a photo of the end of my test limb where I just smeared a little of the powders on so you can see how a couple of the other colors looks.